Black Silk

Black Silk

Sunday, May 28, 2017

Aw, Nuts. When Good Ideas Go South

Generally, even when a batch of soap doesn't go according to design, I can salvage it somehow or another. In nearly 20 years of soaping, I've had only a couple batches totally flop, but there are countless others that fail on Plan A, and Plan B just doesn't quite come to fruition. Its a matter of chemistry, temperatures, additives, fragrance and kitchen gremlins.

When I started this new batch, I was going for dark, sultry colors to match the fragrance, which is called Black Jasmine. I knew its a floral at its root, and floral fragrances and essential oils tend to accelerate trace. (for non-soapers, that means it gets thick rapidly, almost to the point of being unpourable.) I also knew the fragrance would discolor the soap to a tan color.  I eliminated any elaborate design ideas, but figured I'd be able to squeak out a base of pinkish lavender with swirls of dark navy and dark purple. I used titanium dioxide to whiten the main batch of the soap, then added lavender mica with a little rose color mixed in. I mixed my purple and navy. According to my experience, the dark colors should have gone darker and the purple/rose should have morphed to a true lavender.

It didn't go as planned.




Where in heck did those yellow streaks come from?

As you can see, the pour wasn't consistent, that's because the soap was rapidly going thick and was pouring in clumps. I made the situation worse because I added Greek yogurt, which also caused it to thicken quickly. But that doesn't explain the bright yellow.

Two things were happening. One, the fragrance oil didn't completely disperse, so in areas it got caught up. Its not bad, its just concentrating the scent and yellow discoloration. (that's caused by Vanilla, and will tone down to tan...I hope) The other thing that happened is that some colorants behave unpredictably in alkaline environments. Blues tend to turn greenish, then will shift back to blue. Hopefully, the yellows and greens will continue to morph and return to lavender and blue.

Whatever. Its not pretty, but smells amazing and will be wonderful. Unless that yellow changes, I won't be putting this one up for sale.

Takeaway? Always do a test batch when you're using new ingredients. I'll use this fragrance again, but will go with a different color palette. The dark purple turned out really nice, so I know that worked. I knew it'll be tan in its uncolored state, and that will work pretty with browns, russets, oranges and so forth. Also, this might continue to change.

If you are working with a quick moving fragrance (usually floral) here are a few tricks: keep your design simple. This was an In the Pot Swirl and was fairly successful. Go with minimal colors, you can make gorgous single-colored soap. Soap at low temperature. I soaped at 118, I generally soap at 100 or lower. Avoid additives. Anything with sugars (usually food products) will speed trace. Avoid clays. Use less solid oils. This recipe has coconut, shea, and tallow. Solid fats set up faster. 

I do love soapmaking. Never a dull moment. LOL! If anything drastic changes, I'll share. But I'll give this fragrance another shot at another time. :)